Woodland Base-Camp - 3

 

Another visit to the base-camp today allowed some more work on the site, though it turned out to be a wet day in the end, and I got soaked getting home, as did poor old Sam (who is not at all keen on the wet). But firstly I would like to look at the backpack again, because I have some things to say on this which I hope will help others. This is why it pays to get out and about with a rucksack.

As you can see I have made slight changes, adding another bottle-holder to the side of the pack. I thus carried three water-bottles, which makes for quite a bit of weight since these are the heaviest parts of a backpack. I bought the side-pouch (or shoulder-pouch) and a new stainless-steel bottle, since this can be used on its own, or it can be attached to the rucksack. 

Whilst going to the woodland it was noticeable that the water-bottles and cooking-pot were rather uncomfortable, being at the back of the pack, so on the way back I padded these with some of the tarp-equipment etc. This seemed to do the trick as I did not notice any discomfort on the way back. This has to be considered when backpacking or trekking, since discomfort is the last thing you would want on a long trip. This is yet another reason to get out and do this regularly, since you need to know comfortable the rucksack is in use - when packed right. This is something that many 'Bug-Out Bag' videos do not mention, but it is one of the most important things to consider. I would certainly look for a better quality rucksack in time, and one with better features since there are certain better designs than mine -

• The back of the pack is padded, but it is not as much as I would like; it was not a dear pack, hence the short-fallings.
• The best type of waistband is one that is wide and padded, mine is not, and this does make for less comfort.
• I had to add shoulder-straps since the backpack did not have them, which is a must for comfort. 

However, even though I point out these drawbacks, this backpack is quite comfortable, and it does not feel that heavy, except when moving through the denser parts of the woodland which is always awkward whatever you are carrying. Enough of the rucksack.

The first thing I did was to put an extra log on each of the sides, and two logs on the rear of the shelter. This helps to protect from the elements, though this can be bettered in time. As you can see I have put the tarp up much the same way, with some minor adjustments. It is pretty taught and now easy to put up without any problems. This is the aim here, to be able to get to the site and put the tarp on straight away, thus making it easy to shelter if it rains - which it did today. 

This time I did not light the fire with cotton-wool and the ferro-rod; I lit it with a Zippo Lighter, lighting the eco fire-lighter rather than the cotton wool. Again, I do not see the point in using a ferro-rod over and over again and wearing it out when you can use a lighter and merely refill each time, and be able to get fuel as you go along. This saves on cotton-wool too, and it was a bit damp today so finding dry tinder would have been hard - and taking it with me saves time looking for tinder, which can be done at any time. 

I boiled a pot of water for a coffee, using the two metal bars used last time I went over. This is the easiest and safest way to do this, and I find also that using small twigs on the fire and a lot of flames helps speed the boiling up. 

I use a stainless-steel cup which is not blackened because It has not been used to boil the water over the flames. The lid is from the other pot set, but it fits the cup exactly. It is useful to carry such sets because if needed I could use the cup, or even one of the stainless-steel water-bottles to boil over the fire. The 'Teacher's Whisky' bottle is a miniature someone kindly gave me, and I used it in the coffee - a doctor once told my mother that whisky helps to thin the blood down, so this is, of course, for medicinal purposes only. 

One improvement that may well be made is to create a Fire-Reflector at the front of the fire, which would push the heat back into the shelter. As yet I have not come across the larger tarp that I think I kept, but when this is found the shelter will be extended over the front, making it warmer I would think. You can feel the warmer middle part of the shelter because the fire is at this point, a longer fire would warm the whole thing. 

I have cut off all of the dead lower branches of the small pine-trees so that it makes it far easier to get around the camp-area. Using a fire regularly also uses up much of the waste wood lying around, and gradually clears the area for the future. 

As I said before, this is a temporary base-camp which is being set up to make it easier to build something a bit stronger and better over a period of time. There is plenty of potential here for finding a suitable place to build another nearby, and use this whilst doing so. 

Woodland Base Camp - 2

 

Easter Monday and a bright, sunny day, even though the forecast was overcast and even perhaps some snow. I went to the woodlands to work on the Base Camp and to look around the area to see what else can be done there. 

I made the tarp tighter at the back, and due to the edges going over the poles now there is a 'dent' in the middle. In the past such a set-up can actually be useful because when it rains the water runs down the 'dent' and can be collected in a cup or container below. I made a survival-blanket 'kennel' for Sam, but he is rather a round-arse and soon got up to turn round and shed the blanket. Tried a poncho I had with me but not having used this for some time I forgot how small it is (Hobbit size) and it would not fit the shelter. 

I made a small fire-pit, some 12" diameter and 6" deep, which will make a start for a Dakota Fire-Pit if needed. This time I cut the eco fire-lighter in two, and used half the amount of cotton wool to start the fire. 

A cook-pot hung from a stick was used to boil the water for a coffee, but the above set-up was not really very steady, so I changed this afterwards. In the end I used two metal pieces to put the pot on over the fire.

The above seems to be the safest set-up here and the water boiled far quicker; the problem with the stake hung over the fire was that it needs better fixture at the back end because of the logs there, which I did not wish to move. Another idea is a tripod from which the pot hangs - a job for another time. (The metal bars were found near this site years ago.)

The area was cleared of debris scattered around, but left clear as a path around the back of the shelter. The dead wood was collected up and piled at the back so that the shelter cannot be seen so easily from the upper area, which is where the public could walk. The green tarp shows up clearly at this time of year, but the back could eventually be covered with a tarp left there and dead wood, leaves and pine-needles scattered over it.

The photo below shows some honeysuckle that grows in the area, which could be useful for vines and also some flowers are edible. 

There are fir-trees growing at the upper area which would supply green shoots for using as camo, but the area around the base-camp has little greenery so this may be used elsewhere. 

The photo below shows red markings on the fir-trees which suggests that the Forestry Commission may be looking to felling some of these soon, which may well cause a problem for a while. 

Looked at with this in mind I found an area the other side which has bluebells growing and is thus less dense; just by this is another area of small pines which could be used, and one further from the upper area.

This clear area is about 200 yards from the back of a skip-plant, but I have never seen anyone from there and the entrance is on the main road which is further away. The reason this area is not used by many is that the woodland next to it is private and fenced off, and there is no through-way. 

The above short video shows how I have tied various bits of equipment to the outside of the rucksack, which is why the molle-type is used because this is very easy to fix more stuff to. The following is in the rucksack, which also acts as my Bug-Out Bag since it is always ready for use, everything being checked and new stuff added each time I use it. I see no point whatever in keeping a Bug-Out Bag ready and never using it until the one-off which could happen. Better to use the equipment and see how it works. 

• Vango 2-season sleeping-bag.
• Small camo poncho.
• A milar-backed tarp.
• A tarp used as ground-sheet.
• A small camo-tarp.
• A Highlander bivvy-bag which is not breathable but can be used to stuff leaves and pine needles in to sleep on, or to keep equipment dry. I have used a small strap to take this down from 9" to 6" long.
• Cooking Pot/cup/spoon and fork set, and Stainless Steel Cup.
• Stainless Steel Water-Bottle/Plastic Water-Bottle.
• Shelter-building equipment/bungees/cordage/tent pegs.
• Emergency Camo-Blanket.
• Fire-Lighting Equipment - lighters/ferro-rods (2), cotton wool/eco-lighters.
• Knife/Silky Saw.
• Pine Sticks/Fat-Wood Stick.
• Phone-Charger/GPS/Batteries.
• Windproof Lighter.
• Small Maxpedition Pouch with spare GPS, electronic lighter, and another ferro-rod.

In the Leather Waistcoat (a good German make) I have a Zippo Lighter, Torch/Lamp/Signal Light/Alarm, two emergency camo-blankets, sun glasses, and video camera.

This set-up, when put together, holds enough to use for an emergency, and can be added to for a 'one-nighter' in the warmer weather, or added to for colder weather. You will notice how I have adhered to the Two-is-One:One-is-None saying which I believe originated with Ray Mears; this is that if you have two of something and lose one, you still have one, but if you have one and lose one you have none. This is especially true of fire-lighting equipment which is one of the most important things to carry at any time. You can find shelter or make shelter, but you will not find fire-lighting equipment easily. Water you may find but it may need boiling. I do have a number of tarps so this would not be a problem, and these can be used as 'blankets' too, and the bivvy-bag, though not breathable, can still be used as a blanket. 

The camo survival blankets are very neatly packet and go into the jacket pocket, but after use they will never go back that way. I have one stuffed into a small bag and this seems to be alright and has been used a number of times now. The one problem I find with Zippo Lighters is that they go dry very quickly, but I have since found that they do a very small key-chain fuel container which I may invest in soon. They are a good lighter but every one that I have had (all given to me) has the same problem - going dry very quickly. 

This molle-backpack is a medium size and it has areas where it can be added to, which may well be the best way to go about using a Bug-Out Bag. This is used as a 'Day-Sack' here but, as I said, it can be useful for a 'one-nighter' in the warmer months, and bits can be added to it for use in colder weather. It was not a dear one so I may in time get a better one, maybe a bit bigger and able to carry a bit more. The weight is not too heavy for me; I am 74 years old now and it seems light when travelling to the site, but gets a bit more cumbersome over the rough woodland areas. It does not have a very side belt, something which would be improved were this wider and padded, and I had to add the chest-straps myself which is not unusual in these. It is certainly very easy to use, but some improvements would make it easier. 

Spring Growing

 

Survival is just as much about how to survive in a future where the powers in control have total control over everything we need for that survival. In such a future time - not so far off by the look of it - we will need to be able to grow our own food for the use of the individual, family or group. Of course, an idea was brought before the EU to try to stop the individual growing food, but was thrown out. However, what seems totally insane today becomes reality tomorrow. Whatever happens, learning to become self-reliant through food-growing will never be a waste of time, because no matter what happens this can be done through Guerilla Gardening using land which is not used and which is out of the way enough not to be noticed easily. We should think of the worst that can happen and plan for this, if it does not happen that way we shall not have wasted our time.

Seed trays with small 'plug' compartments are useful for growing at the earliest stage, and this can be done in February-March-April. I started early with some of mine, even as early as late January, and using the poly-tunnel has been a boon for this year. The seed-tray above was planted later and the seedlings are just coming through.

Onion sets were planted in the poly-tunnel in early February and this is how they are now; this has put them well ahead, though this could mean some going to seed. Red Onions, I am told, can do this, and some I planted are Red Onions, so we shall see. This is the advantage of having many options as to the use of covers such as a greenhouse, poly-tunnel, cloches, or mini-greenhouses, all of which will produce food much earlier. These are used to create a longer growing season, the object of trying to become more self-sufficient.

These are peas grown in a pot, using small sticks which they will climb up; the peas I used were dried peas from a supermarket, much cheaper than the packets from seed-suppliers. These are the first sown and I have a lot more in seed-trays and pots, some using Lord Leicester variety which is an old heritage seed, but which last year did not do too well. I think this was because of the location I set up the pea-canes, but I had enough seeds to save for this year to try again. I have also sown peas in an old piece of guttering with the ends shut off: this is then easily tipped out sideways to form a pea-row. Another experiment.

The raised bed in the front garden has been planted with spring onions and different varieties of lettuce. I intended to do a Welsh form of planting spring onions, where a greater number of seeds are planted together in a pot and then transplanted into place, producing a cluster of plants close together. The tops can be harvested this way. But I forgot this and will try a second crop later; spring onions have never done well for me I am afraid, and rarely do I get any decent ones. Last year I cut the tops off regularly and they grow again, and this way seems to work better for me. 

I have a tub of peppermint in the front garden, and a tub of spearmint in the back garden, and these get rather tangled and 'leggy' each year. Now I get the roots up and break them into small pieces, thus being able to produce a number of pots of new plants each year. 

These lettuce grew from the seeds produced by last year's crops, and I transplanted them into the poly-tunnel; they have grown bigger now and will soon be ready to harvest. This will be much earlier than the seeds sown in this spring, thus again lengthening the growing season, which is the aim for this year. It seems best to give yourself some kind of goal to achieve each year, trying evermore to grow more and lengthen the season's growing.

This is yet another experiment I have done this year; when cutting off the top and bottom of an onion to use in cooking, don't throw away the pieces. Keep the rooted part and plant it in some compost. This is growing now, and may produce an onion, but if not the tops can be used. First try this so I am not sure what happens. 

 

The above shows seed-trays with more dried peas growing, and I have done quite a lot of these. Peas need only some type of twigs (better than canes) which they can wrap around to grow upwards. They use a lot of nitrogen though and need feeding; dig the roots into the ground (like runner beans) to get the nitrogen back into the soil. 

This is the strawberry-barrel which is coming on well this year, after being put into the poly-tunnel for a month or so at the end of the winter. These have never done well in a barrel, but this year I shall try to give more attention and feeding. I have a strawberry bed in the front garden but I am considering the future of this since these did badly last year too. They are well behind those in the barrel, and nowhere near as healthy-looking. Maybe the bed could be put to better use. This is something to consider when having to grow in small areas, since something that is not worth growing is merely taking space for another thing that is. 

I have put up sticks for growing runner beans, but these have to be started later because they are not frost-hardy. They like a little shade and cool rather than too hot, and need lots of watering. I have different types in different areas, but set up sticks and canes early so as to be well ahead this year. 

I have a platner which my mum had when she was alive, and this is filled with strawberries and is here placed in the strawberry bed, which I have made smaller this year after some losses. This planter has also never done well, so need to rethink the strawberry growing. The large pot has lettuce in it.

An area in the corner next to a shed is where I intend to grow Lord Leicester pease this year, so I have set up canes and poles and have put seeds behind these. Next to these will grow Polestar runner-beans, but we can have frosts until, mid-May so cannot plant now. A few leeks are growing from last year, and I'll leave these where they are - no need to be too neat and tidy with growing, a bit of Chaos never hurts.

A small gooseberry bush grows in a pot for now; some of my fruit bushes and fruit trees went over to the woodlands where they grow now. This may well join them later, but for now it can grow on here. 

Lastly, as an experiment this year I am going to try to grow Whippets; as you can see here I have planted one in a small raised bed next to the pea-canes. If this works we'll have hunting-dogs for the future - until they ban hunting altogether, of course. 

From the world-situation and how things are panning out we shall see catastrophic change and social upheaval, and maybe even some sort of breakdown of society, just as long predicted. Whatever the case, Covid-1984 has shown how we need to forge ahead with the drive for self-reliance and self-sufficiency, and growing our own food goes some way towards our aims. 

Woodland Base Camp - Improvements

 

This is the Base-Camp as it was before the improvements; it took part of a day to get the set-up right using dead wood from the area.

What I have done is to set the milar-backed tarp up using tarp-clips in the centre, bungee-balls at the ends (don't know what these are really called), and tying the back down from the tarp-grommets. This makes it far more taught and a much better set-up. I cut the rotten bits from the ends of the fence-stakes and made the seat to the left better and sturdier, though the logs are rather rotten too and really need replacing. The longer fence-stake is not rotten so I used at on its own as a seat to the right. 

The right-hand side has been filled with large logs, held by two uprights knocked into the ground with a wooden baton. The other side I used smaller logs, and most of this was done with a dead pine-tree which I felled and cut into pieces, using only a Silky Pocket Boy which did the job well. 

Filling in the sides helps to stop some of the cross-winds, and the structure itself will be left there as it is, just the tarp removed and taken home each time. The shelter itself is sound but the logs do need filling in between the cracks at some time in the future, and maybe adding more logs to this at some stage. It is actually wise to leave the sides lower because if the wind blows smoke into the shelter this escapes through the sides. 

To ensure a quick start to a fire to get a brew on I used a bit of cotton-wool and an eco fire-lighter which works very well. I dug a small pit this time with a sharp stick so as to be able to fill it over and quell the fire since it has been dry most of the week. The eco fire-lighters were given to me by Hamasson, and they can be found in some stores; they work very well so carrying a few with you is something to consider. Of course, to make what you have last longer it would be fine to cut one in half and use one half at a time, especially in fine weather conditions. Just thought of that but it would have been an idea doing this fire since everything was really dry. Also goes for the cotton wool, which I have probably used too much of here. This is something to think of for the time when you have only a limited stock of anything. 

A pot filled with water was used to boil water for a cup of coffee, using a stick on a Y-shaped stick, just with a notch cut in the end to hold the pot. I also cleared the area around the camp so as to minimise the chance of fire, since the weather is now getting much dryer and sometimes warmer - though it was quite cold today. One thing to mention here; the cooking-pot gets very sooty in use, so I clean it with washing-up liquid and water using a scourer, but not taking all of the soot of in doing so. This builds up and the black finish helps to heat the contents quicker, according to science anyway. 

This is the back of the shelter which could be pulled tighter on the right side, but the post is in the way at the moment. I have left these higher because it may be wise to add another log or two on the top of these, and thus cutting the tops off is not really needed. I have cleared the area around the Base-Camp, and the aim is now to arrange the fallen wood (which there is loads) around the outside leaving only one entrance to the site. This I intend to do next time, at the same time cutting up more fire-wood from what is around. This will make the Base-Camp quite secure with only one entrance to the site, and anyone trying to get in would make a noise trying to get through the fallen branches. 

NOTE - On the subject of securing a site, one way to do this is to use a length of cordage threaded through a number of food-tins (drill small holes around the top) which hang from the thread. Put about five or six small pebbles in each tin, and if anyone tries to get into the camp at night they will trip the cordage and the tins will rattle as they do so, hopefully waking you up. Not high-tech but this is very effective. A more high-tech way would be to use trip-wire and a blank cartridge, but this (as we found once at Wayland's Smithy) tends to attract the police. Another option, which can be used with the tins & stones, is to use a solar-powered PIR lamp which lights up when any movement takes place. This lights up the whole area so that anyone coming in can be seen. I have done this when camping out on my own, but animals can set this off too. 

As you can see here the inside-perimeter is quite secure, especially in the dark when it will most likely be needed. The front end has a couple of logs thrown down, but this is only for now, until such time as I can build a fire-reflector across, leaving a small gap to get into the base. 

The aim is to get the whole thing set up ready for some one-nighters over the spring-summer months. The area has a great deal of fallen dead pine-wood which, as I said, will be used to create a barrier around the base, and for stocking up fire-wood for future use. There is more to do yet, including trying to fill the gaps in the logs at the back and sides; the aim is to make it as comfortable as possible because I intend to use only a small rucksack and light sleeping equipment to see how this works in the warmer time of the year. This can then be extended into the autumn and winter months. 

The fire is quite a bit away from the tarp because I have a 3m x 2m tarp which would most likely fit this shelter and would thus have a hang-over at the front and go right down the back. I would still use the milar-backed 2m x 2m tarp because it would act as an insulation-layer and reflect the heat from the fire into the shelter. If I remember right this tarp is an old one so it could even be left on the site, especially if I can use some of the fallen wood as camo around the back. We shall see. Using a larger tarp would certainly be a must for the colder time of the year, since a hang-over at the front keeps the rain off far better than this set-up. The usual wind-direction is from the back and right-side anyway, but there may be times when the wind comes in from the front. 

I tried one of these camo-milar emergency blankets whilst the weather was rather chilly and this seemed to be quite warm in the circumstances. I have yet to try this out as an 'emergency shelter' but will do so in time. I do have an emergency bivvy-bag which is a closed version of the blanket, and have put this with an old silk sleeping-bag liner which is small enough to pack into a rucksack or bum-bag, and the silk liner helps to keep it warm (I feel that the milar-blankets would get rather colder in use due to not being breathable against the body, so a liner would solve this - in theory now anyway.) 

The Silky Pocket Boy saw is very small but it is an exceptionally good tool and today cut through some logs over 4" thick. It cuts on the pull-stroke and the design makes it so easy to get through. I have about 4 Bahco Folding-Saws which are slightly larger, and are very good too, but carry the Silky now because it is so small and compact. It has a very good locking system too, which makes it very safe to handle and use, and there are larger versions for cutting larger logs. 

Of course, one improvement that could be made to such a shelter is to double the layers of the logs at the back and sides, filling the gap between layers with dead pine-needles and twigs. This would create a layer of insulation for the back and sides, making the shelter warmer in the winter. 

What I have used as a ground-sheet here is an old Highlander Bivvy-Bag bought years ago; this proved totally useless since it is not breathable and in use you get soaked in sweat. Rather than throw it away I kept it luckily, and it packs small enough to carry in a large day-sack and can be used as a ground-sheet or even for putting clothes in to keep dry - never throw old stuff away! It could even be filled with dead leaves or pine needles and used for insulation under a sleeping-bag. This is also true of large bin-liners which can be filled with leaves and /or pine needles and used as insulation for sleeping on. 

I have still to explore this area fully, and have found only a couple of footprints a bit further up from the base, so it is still not used by many people today. There would be enough dead stuff around to camo behind the shelter later, but it is very hard to see from the area of the footprints anyway. 

The advantage of having a tarp left on such shelters is that the area inside the shelter is kept dry, and thus dry dead wood can be stored under the tarp for use each time you go to the base. This is how Wulfgar and I set up the earlier lean-to shelter in a different part of the woodlands, and this stayed completely dry through the years that the shelter remained there. You can thus also use a couple of bin-bags filled with leaves/pine needles left on the site and kept dry by the tarp left on. These can be use to sit on, rest on, or for use for a one-nighter now and again. 

Sleeping in a lean-to shelter can be very cold in below-freezing temperatures, hence the use of the Long-Fire. Wulfson and I once did this in another area of these woodlands and the temperature went down to well below zero that night - the frost was thick on the ground even inside the canopy of the woodland. We had to get up a couple of times during the night to cut wood since the fire went out - a lesson to make sure that before you get to sleep to stock up enough wood for the whole night, or make a Long-Fire using a couple of very thick logs. We had good sleeping-bags and kit but that night was bloody cold! 

Base-Camp Video

Water-Purification (Boiling) -

Boiling water is the safest and most effective way to purify it; chemicals can be used where boiling is not an option. Firstly, sieve out all dirt etc using a Milbank Bag, then rolling boil the water for at least one minute - I do this for two minutes to be safe, and longer if the water looks 'iffy'. Below is a very short video showing a 'rolling boil' -